How this site is made.
Hand-written HTML and CSS, one file per page, hosted on GitHub Pages. No framework, no build step, no analytics. The whole thing is a few hundred lines and you can read all of it in the source.
The type is Newsreader, drawn by Production Type and released under the Open Font License. It's a variable font with an optical size axis, which means the letters are shaped differently at caption size than at title size, the way metal type was. Two files, under 300 KB together, served from this site. If they fail to load you get Iowan Old Style, Palatino, or Georgia, in that order.
The page follows the sun where you are. It's a slightly cooler white in the morning, warmer toward evening, and dims after dark. It never asks for your location; it guesses from your clock and the date, which is close enough. You can preview any state by adding ?light=night to the address. If your system prefers reduced motion, the transitions are off.
The favicon is three contour lines of Russian Hill, where I live. It's redrawn in the current ink as the light changes.
Essays remember where you stopped reading. That's a number in your browser's local storage and it never leaves your device.
Print any page. The stylesheet was written for paper too.